Printer, Flashforge Adventurer 4
Build Volume 220*200*250mm (8.67*7.87*9.84IN)
Print Surface Textured Flexible Magnetic REMOVABLE build plate
Filament Material PLA, ABS, PC, PETG, PLA-CF, PETG-CF
Filament Diameter 1.75 mm [0.069 in]
Nozzle Diameter 0.4 mm [0.015 in] default, 0.6 and 0.3 can be ordered if enough member interest
Connectivity USB Stick, Wi-Fi
Software & Firmware FlashPrint
See the attached "Flashforge Finder Intro Class" PDF Document for initial training on this resource. Once you are able to print on the Finder please see the "Additional Information for Adventurer 4" (In progress, May 18, 2022)
Slicing and Printing notes
Use Flashprint 5, and select the Adventurer 4 as the printer
For PLA, the "out of the box" settings produce an excellent result, just be sure to turn off the Raft in advanced settings.
For PETG, the default PETG profile needs minor tweaking, Use:
245C VS 250
Use a light coating of Glue Stick on the build platform (clean off with warm water and a paper towel after)
This is actually to make it easier to pull off, otherwise it can bond far too tightly.
Increase Extrusion Multiplier by 1-2% if you notice gaps in your print
Optionally move first layer Z down by 0.04mm max (See "Adjusting Settings During Runtime", below) if gaps between lines still
Still working on ideal level calibration every time.
BE ABSOLUTELY SURE you print High Temp materials (PETG, ABS, etc) only on the Adv 4 that has the right High Temp Nozzle installed
Typically the Left printer is high temp, the right printer is PLA... working on a better system as well as allowing users to swap the nozzles
High risk of breakage, so keeping separate printers for the moment..
These machines have a removable, flexible build plate. SO once we find the ideal calibration there should be no scraping, just remove, flex, and return
When replacing the build plate into the machine, be sure the "ears"/"tabs" on the back of the build plate are properly set *under* the raised slots in the back.It's *very* easy to accidentally place them on top, which will cause problems. Picture coming later...
If it is a known abrasive filament (Glow in the Dark, Wood, BASF Metal filament, etc) do not use.
Harder TPU filaments (eg NinjaTek Cheetah) will work fine in this Bowden style extruder, softer TPU filaments (eg NinjaTek NinjaFlex) will not work properly
If switching from PLA to a High Temp filament, or vice-versa, completely unload previous filament before changing nozzles, then load new filament
When loading filament, ensure filament is inserted into the extruder where the arrow is in the graphic, and when it first starts help push it in until it is feeding reliably on its own. Otherwise it may not start itself feeding properly.
Ensure the filament loaded matches your sliced file. Do not use PETG for a PLA-sliced object, for example. Naming sliced files with a Material in the name can help (myfile_pla.gx, for example)
Adjusting Settings during runtime
If you notice issues with flow, temperature, etc these can be slightly adjusted during runtime. Click the "..." icon, which will bring up the menu with the three icons above. Then click the "Document" Icon, and you'll see the menu on the right.
Note the following limits:
Do not increase temperature above 255
Do not increase Build Plate Temp over 100C
Do not increase speed
Do not (no never ever ever) lower Z more than 0.04mm - if it seems like you need to do this, the build plate needs to be recalibrated, and some points may be off level enough that this will crash the head into the build plate, damaging both.
To apply new settings, make the changes then click "Ok". Do not make large adjustments in any value, this is just used for fine-tuning a closely-watched test print.